the perfect clear bag

WILD FLOWERS TOTE BAG TUTORIAL 

Are you looking for a fun and eco-friendly way to add a touch of nature to your wardrobe? Look no further than this wildflowers tote bag tutorial! In this guide, we’ll show you how to create a beautiful and durable tote bag adorned with vibrant wildflowers. Whether you’re a seasoned crafter or just starting out, this project is perfect for all skill levels. We’ll provide clear instructions and helpful tips along the way. So, let’s gather your supplies and get started on your wildflower tote bag adventure!

SUPPLIES NEEDED

  • Wild Flowers Fabrics 
  • 2 Stash Starters (1 yd.)

OTHER SUPPLIES

  • 3 yds. nylon webbing for straps (1 inch width)
  • 5/8 yd. Pellon® 987F Fusible Fleece
  • 1 yd. Pellon® SF101 Shape Flex Fusible Interfacing
  • Coordinating thread
  • Removable marker (for marking on printed fabric)
  • Snap (optional)
  • Basic sewing supplies
  • Rotary cutter, mat, and acrylic ruler
  • Sewing machine and iron
  • Even-feed foot (optional)
  • 5 in x 13 in firm cardboard or plastic canvas (optional)

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

CUTTING

Fabric A: 1 – 20″ x 32″ (bag)
                1 – 19″ x 31″ (lining)
Fabric B: 1 – 16″ x 21″ (outside pockets)
                2 – 12 ½” x 10″ (inside pockets)
Fusible Fleece:  20″ x 32″
Fusible Interfacing:  19″ x 31″

QUIlTING

  • Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply the fusible fleece to the wrong side of the bag fabric and the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the lining fabric.
  • Using a removable marker, mark diagonal quilting lines on the right side of the bag, spaced 3 inches apart in both directions. Quilt along these lines using either a serpentine stitch or a straight stitch (refer to Diagram A). If needed, use the even-feed foot for better fabric handling.
  • Trim the bag to match the dimensions of the lining piece. Remove any markings from the bag. Mark the crosswise and widthwise centers of both the bag and the lining with a marker or by using thread basting (see Diagram A). Set the lining aside until you reach Step 11.

MAKING THE BAG

  • Fold the outside pocket in half, aligning the long edges. Sew around the outside edges, leaving a 4-inch opening for turning (refer to Diagram B). Clip the corners diagonally and turn the pocket right side out. Press it well, then topstitch along the short ends. Fold the pocket into quarters and press firmly to create placement folds.
  • Position the pocket on the bag, aligning it with the center markings. Baste along the long edges to secure it in place (see Diagram C).
  • Before attaching the webbing, seal the ends using a match or other heat source to prevent fraying. Then, fold the webbing in half and mark the center with a pin.

  • With one end positioned at the center of the bag, lay the webbing along one side of the pocket, centering it over the long edges of the pocket (refer to Diagram D). Place the center pin in the webbing at the opposite side of the pocket, aligning it with the center fold. Pin the webbing evenly in place over the sides of the pocket.
  • Ensure the ends of the webbing are abutted together and pin or baste them securely.
  • Note: Be careful to avoid twisting the webbing while pinning it in place. Topstitch along the edges of the webbing, stopping ½ inch from the top edges of the bag. Remove any thread basting used.
  • Fold the bag in half with the right sides together and pin the sides. Sew the side seams and finger press the seams open.
  • To box the bottom, bring the center bottom crease to the side seam (right sides together). Mark 2 ½ inches from the point and stitch from edge to edge (see Diagram E). Repeat this step for the other side.
  • Turn the bag right side out and press along the top, bottom, and side edges. IMPORTANT: Avoid touching the webbing with the hot iron!
  • Pin the bag layers together and edge stitch along the bottom and sides of the bag to provide shaping (refer to Diagram F).

    Note: The stitching at the bottom edge will help prevent items in the outside pocket from slipping into the bottom of the bag.

    MAKING THE LINING

    • Fold the inside pockets in half, matching the right sides of the long edges, and pin them in place. Sew around the edges, leaving a 3-inch opening on one long side. Clip the corners diagonally and turn the pockets right side out. Press them flat, then topstitch along the folded edges.
    • Center the pockets on the short ends of the lining, positioning them 4 inches from the short edges (refer to Diagram G). Sew them in place by stitching around the sides and bottom. If desired, stitch through the pockets to divide them into smaller sections.
    • Pin and sew the side seams of the lining, leaving a 5-inch opening on one side for turning. Box the corners by following the instructions from Step 9 above.

    FINISHING THE BAG

    • Pin the straps away from the top edge of the bag. Place the bag inside the lining, aligning the side seams and top edges. Pin in place and sew along the top edge.
    • Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining and sew the opening closed. Push the lining into the bag and press the top edge.
    • Unpin the straps and edge stitch around the top of the bag, ensuring to catch the straps in the stitching.
    • If desired, sew a snap closure inside the bag at the top edge.
    • Optional: Use any remaining fabric to create a cover for the cardboard or plastic canvas, then place it in the bottom of the bag.

    DIY PAPER MACHE PUMPKIN – THE PERFECT FALL CRAFT!

    This paper mache pumpkin is an ideal project for those who enjoy getting their hands dirty and immersing themselves in a creative endeavor! I’m thrilled with how this pumpkin turned out and have plenty of ideas for improving my next one. The project evolved as I worked on it; I initially aimed for a neutral pumpkin, but as you can see, it took on a different look. Keep reading to discover how to make your own paper mache pumpkin!

    TOOLS & MATERIALS

    • Punch Balloon
    • Paper Sacks or Newspaper
    • Flour
    • Salt
    • Water
    • Container to Mix In
    • Twine
    • Spray Paint
    • Pumpkin Stem
    • Foliage *optional

    STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

    Before diving into this project, there are a few preparations to make.

    PREPARING THE PAPER

    Begin by tearing your paper sacks or newspapers into strips. If you’re using paper sacks, aim for thin strips, as they will create a better 3-D effect on your pumpkin. If you opt for newspaper, wider strips are fine since the newspaper is lighter than the paper bag.

    MAKING YOUR PASTE

    Next, prepare your homemade paper mache paste. I started with a cup of flour and added a generous sprinkle of salt to prevent mold. Gradually mix in water with the flour and salt until you achieve a consistency similar to pancake batter.

    PREPARING YOUR BALLOON

    Inflate your balloon to the desired size of your pumpkin. Keep in mind that less air will give you more variation in shape.

    Next, take your twine and tie it around the balloon’s tail. Begin wrapping the twine around the balloon to create the ridges of your pumpkin. Each time you pass the twine over the balloon tail, make sure to wrap it around to secure it in place. Once you’ve created your desired number of ridges, you’re ready to move on to the next step.

    GET MESSY

    Now it’s time for the fun part—paper mache! Take your strips of newspaper and dip them into the paste you mixed earlier, ensuring they are thoroughly soaked so they can mold to the pumpkin shape. I recommend starting with a layer of newspaper in the crevices or using narrow strips of paper bag, as the thinner newspaper tends to fit better into the grooves of the pumpkin.

    Soak the newspaper strips and apply them to your balloon pumpkin until it’s completely covered, making sure to overlap each strip. Allow the pumpkin to dry between layers.

    To make the process easier, I found it helpful to place my pumpkin on an old ice cream bucket. This kept the pumpkin from rolling away while I worked on each side.

    For my second layer, I repeated the same process but used paper bag strips instead. The thickness of the paper bag strips allowed me to get away with just two layers. If you’re using only newspaper for this project, I recommend applying additional layers to ensure sturdiness.

    Once you’ve achieved your desired number of layers, be sure to let the pumpkin dry completely.

    I initially hoped that the paper bag strips would give my pumpkin a neutral look, similar to THIS, but once it dried, the paste covered most of the brown. I found that homemade paste tends to be thicker and less translucent than store-bought paper mache. At this point, I decided to paint my pumpkin.

    PAINTING THE PUMPKIN

    To prepare my pumpkin for painting, I sanded it down using a sanding block like THIS. The paste had dried thicker in some areas where I hadn’t smoothed it out properly, so sanding not only helped even those spots but also provided a better surface for the paint to adhere to.

    After sanding, I carefully removed the balloon from inside the pumpkin. This turned out to be quite a process and didn’t go as smoothly as I had hoped!

    To remove the balloon, I used a pin to pop it, expecting it to deflate and get trapped inside the pumpkin. To prevent that, I securely held the end of the balloon while I popped it. However, the balloon didn’t deflate as I anticipated! While it did lose air, the twine wrapped around it kept everything in place.

    To address this, I cut a small hole in the top of the pumpkin to help loosen the twine. Using my fingers and some leverage, I carefully pulled the twine away from the pumpkin’s walls and slowly lifted the balloon out. You don’t necessarily have to remove the balloon, but I wanted to clear the tail to make room for my stem.

    Once the balloon was out, I spray-painted my paper mache pumpkin.

    ADDING A STEM

    For the stem, I initially wanted to use a stem from a real pumpkin, but that plan didn’t work out. Instead, I created one using paper bag strips. I rolled up a strip and soaked it completely in Mod Podge, then added smaller strips at the base to make it easier to glue onto the pumpkin later.

    After letting the stem dry completely, I used a paintbrush and the homemade paste to attach it to the top of the pumpkin. I wiped away any excess paste and allowed it to dry thoroughly.

    Next, I used some brown paint and a small paintbrush to color the stem. To give my pumpkin a little extra flair, I took some faux foliage and created a ring to place around the stem, securing it with hot glue.

    ADDING SOMETHING EXTRA

    This project is fantastic because it allows you to unleash your creativity and customize it to your heart’s content. You can make your pumpkins in any size you desire, choose to leave them bare for a neutral look, or paint them in vibrant, funky colors. You could even cut the pumpkin in half to create a unique bowl! The possibilities are endless!

    STYLING YOUR PAPER MACHE PUMPKIN

    To style my pumpkin, I used a tureen and added some straw inside, allowing it to peek out around the bottom of the pumpkin for added texture. An urn would also work wonderfully for styling your pumpkin!