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GUIDE TO JAPANESE SUBSTYLES

This is a list of various substyles within fashion, along with their definitions. Keep in mind that styles often overlap and mix, so don’t worry too much about labeling your outfit under one specific substyle. In the end, it’s all still girly kei!

Core Styles

CASUAL GIRLY

As the name implies, this substyle is casual girly kei. The clothing is often oversized and made from comfortable materials, promoting a relaxed vibe. Hairstyles, makeup, and accessories tend to be simple, with braids and twintails commonly seen. This versatile substyle can range from modest to flashy, depending on how you choose to coordinate your outfit.

SWEET GIRLY

The most popular substyle is known for its playful, over-the-top details like lace, ribbons, and plenty of cute prints. Pastel shades dominate, though darker colors can also be found. Decorative elements are more extravagant compared to other styles, and hair accessories like headbands and ribbons woven into ornate hairstyles are common. Accessories and even main pieces often feature bijou detailing, adding a touch of sparkle. When it comes to footwear, platforms are the most popular choice, though tea party shoes and Mary Janes are also frequently seen. During winter, ankle boots become a stylish and practical option.

FRENCH GIRLY

French girly is a substyle that embodies the romanticized image of a young French woman, similar to the popular “French model aesthetic” seen on TikTok. Outfits typically feature lower platforms and a monochromatic palette of black, white, and gray, often mixed with creams and off-whites. Key elements include hairbands, pearl and gold accents, curled hair, berets, tweed, and ruffled sleeves. Many wearers incorporate high-end European fashion designers into their looks through accessories or cosmetics. While French text is common on accessories, it’s rarely found on clothing.

NATURAL GIRLY

At first glance, natural girly may resemble mori fashion, sharing a vintage-inspired aesthetic. It features a soft silhouette with longer skirts and delicate embroidery. Earth tones are popular, along with square-toed shoes, loafers, canvas bags, and minimal or no-makeup looks. Thrifting is a common practice among natural girly wearers, who often prefer pieces made from all-natural fabrics.

OTONA GIRLY

This substyle caters to those looking for a more mature look. Outfits typically feature longer skirts and a toned-down aesthetic with fewer details. While not always the case, colors tend to be muted, creating a more understated appearance compared to other styles. Solid colors, simple floral patterns, and polka dots are common, along with designer handbags and high heels. Newcomers may find it challenging to distinguish otona from general feminine fashion, as the style emphasizes subtle cute details, even in its simplicity!

RETRO GIRLY

This substyle draws inspiration from retro fashions, making you look as though you’ve stepped right out of the past! It often includes outfits resembling old-fashioned school uniforms, with browns, creams, and lots of plaid being key elements. Folded socks, tights, Mary Janes, and hats are also common accessories. Despite the vintage feel, the clothes in this style aren’t actually vintage but are designed to have a retro aesthetic. It’s all about capturing the charm of old-school fashion while keeping it fresh and modern!

DARK GIRLY

Despite its name, this substyle isn’t just girly kei in dark colors—it has a distinctly edgy vibe. Unlike sweet girly, which focuses on cuteness, dark girly embraces a bolder, more rebellious atmosphere. Key elements include heavy makeup, bondage-inspired accessories, and dramatic platform shoes. Religious iconography, like crosses, hexagrams, and rosaries, is commonly featured. Lace socks and fishnet stockings are popular in this style, with ripped fishnets being a common touch to add to the edgy aesthetic. This substyle blends a sense of mystery with a tough, fashion-forward attitude.

Related Styles

HIMEKAJI

Contrary to what some in the West may believe, himekaji is not solely a gyaru substyle! This fashion is defined by floral prints and abundant lace. While short skirts were prevalent during the gyaru boom, longer garments are now popular and can also be styled for girly kei. Pearl details and accessories are just as common as bijou elements, with an emphasis on keeping accessories elegant and cute.

MENHERA

If you’re not familiar with the menhera subculture, it’s a good idea to start with articles by Menheratic. The style often features vent art prints, with a variety of clothing options, including girly pieces. Outfits typically consist of an oversized top worn as a dress, minimal accessories, platform shoes, simple hairstyles, and byojaku makeup. However, it’s important to remember that menhera primarily focuses on mental health awareness, and the true essence of a coord lies in the meaning assigned to it by the wearer!

JERSEY MAID

Since around 2020, Japanese alternative fashion enthusiasts have embraced (often kawaii-fied) tracksuits and a general gopnik attitude, which has influenced various styles, including girly kei. Although the term suggests a maid-like appearance, it applies to all sorts of frilly tracksuit-inspired outfits, regardless of whether they feature an apron. It’s worth noting that searching for “tracksuit” won’t yield the desired results; they’re referred to as “jersey” in this context. This trend is closely tied to the mizuiro aesthetic, popularized by Tenshi Zyoshi.

CHINA KEI

This style has been around for some time but is often unfamiliar by name. China kei is a kawaii-inspired take on traditional Chinese clothing, including tangzhuang, qipao, and hanfu. Accessories like bun covers, hair sticks, and Chinese knots are common. While Japanese brands may occasionally release similar items, it’s much more prevalent among Chinese indie brands on platforms like Taobao.

OtherJAPANESE TRADITIONAL

JAPANESE TRADITIONAL

Many reinterpretations of traditional Japanese clothing exist across various styles, and girly kei is no exception. This aesthetic includes numerous kimono and yukata designs, as well as girly kei brand releases that incorporate iconic collars and sleeves while maintaining the fashion’s essence. Wearers often pair these outfits with girly kei accessories, intricate hair ribbons, and decorative nails to complete the look. Some may even choose non-traditional platform shoes instead of tabi and geta!

GIRLY-INSPIRED COSTUMES

Given the fashion’s popularity, it’s no surprise that there are costumes inspired by the girly kei style. Themes like jiangshi, nurses, maids, and nuns often receive a girly kei twist, especially in Halloween specials of Larme magazine. Essentially, if you can imagine it, you can make it girly! While not always shown, it’s also common to see idol costumes infused with girly elements.

conclusion

While this may not be an exhaustive list, I hope you found it informative! If there’s a specific substyle you feel is missing and deserves attention, don’t hesitate to reach out to me in my inbox!

GARLIC FRIED RICE 

This simple rice dish hails from Japan, but I first discovered it while living in Thailand. It’s a common side dish at many hot pot and “self-barbecue” restaurants, where you grill your own meats at the table. It’s the perfect accompaniment because the grilled meats are usually quite plain in flavor, so having a side of rice with a bit more flair, like garlic fried rice, really balances the meal.

INGREDIENTS

  • Neutral cooking oil (as needed)
  • 1 head of garlic
  • 2 tbsp unsalted butter
  • ½ tsp ground black pepper (or to taste)
  • 650g cooked short-grain Japanese rice (see note)
  • 1 tbsp + 1 tsp Japanese soy sauce
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • 1 tsp dashi powder (hondashi), dissolved in 2 tbsp water
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 green onions, chopped
  • Crushed seaweed (aonori) for garnish (optional)

Note: To yield 650g cooked rice, start with 1 ½ cups of raw Japanese short-grain rice (or 2 “rice cups” using the measuring cup that comes with the rice cooker).

INSTRUCTIONS

  • Thinly slice about 40% of the garlic for garlic chips (or chop them into small pieces if you prefer fried garlic bits). Finely chop the remaining garlic.
  • To make the garlic chips, heat about a centimeter of oil in a small pot or wok over medium heat. Test the oil by adding a small piece of garlic; once it starts bubbling, add the rest of the garlic. Lower the heat and fry gently until golden and the bubbling subsides. Remove and drain the garlic on a paper towel, saving the garlic oil for later.
  • In a large skillet or wok, melt butter over medium heat. Add the minced garlic and black pepper, sautéing for a few minutes until the garlic becomes aromatic and soft. If you want more richness, add a little of the reserved garlic oil.
  • Add the cooked rice to the skillet, followed by soy sauce, dashi mixture, and salt. Turn the heat up to high and toss well, breaking up any rice clumps with the back of your spatula.
  • Once the rice is well-mixed, push it to one side of the pan to make space for the eggs. Drizzle a bit of garlic oil into the empty space, then crack the eggs into the pan. Break the yolks, let them set briefly, then cover with the rice and cook for another 30 seconds. Toss everything together to scramble the eggs into the rice.
  • Turn off the heat and stir in the chopped green onions.
  • Serve the garlic fried rice, garnished with crushed seaweed and garlic chips if desired. Enjoy!