how long should a bar of soap last one person

THE TATTOO AFTERCARE: WHAT SHOULD YOU DO?

Getting a tattoo is an exciting experience, but the real work begins after you leave the artist’s chair. Proper tattoo aftercare is crucial for ensuring your new ink heals beautifully and minimizes the risk of infection or complications. This involves a delicate balance of keeping the area clean while allowing it to breathe and heal naturally. 

This guide will provide you with essential tips and information on how to care for your fresh tattoo, from the immediate post-tattoo steps to long-term considerations. By following these guidelines, you can help your tattoo heal optimally and enjoy its vibrant colors and intricate designs for years to come.

TATTOO AFTERCARE: FIRST 30 DAYS AND BEYOND

Healing time varies depending on your tattoo’s size and intricacy. Larger tattoos tend to stay red and swollen for longer as they cause more trauma to the skin.

Day 1

When you leave the tattoo studio, your tattoo will be covered with a dressing. Your artist will tell you when to remove it. Plastic wrap and gauze are typically removed after a few hours, while medical-grade adhesive (known as “second skin”) can stay on for several days. Brands like Dermalize, Flexifix, Saniderm, SecondSkin, Tatu-Derm, and Tegaderm are commonly used.


Fluid, including blood, plasma, and excess ink, may ooze from your tattoo. It will also be red, sore, and warm to the touch. When it’s time to remove the dressing, wash your hands thoroughly before gently peeling it off. Cleanse the area with warm water and fragrance-free soap, rinse well, and then lightly pat dry. Afterward, wait a few minutes before applying the ointment or lotion your artist recommends.

Days 2–3:
Your tattoo will likely have a duller, cloudier appearance as your skin starts healing. Scabs may form.


Continue washing your tattoo once or twice a day, and don’t worry if some ink runs into the sink. This is just excess ink coming up through your skin. Let your skin dry completely before applying the recommended ointment or lotion.

Days 4–6:
By now, the second skin should be removed. Some artists suggest running the area under water while peeling off the adhesive. Make sure your hands are clean before starting.
Gently stretch the adhesive and peel it off slowly. Afterward, cleanse the area, let it dry, and apply the recommended ointment or lotion.


Redness should be fading, and light scabbing may appear. Avoid picking at the scabs, as this can cause scarring. Continue washing your tattoo once or twice daily and applying ointment as needed.

Days 6–14:
Scabs will begin to flake off naturally, but don’t pick at them. Pulling them off prematurely can remove ink and cause scarring. Itching is common during this time. To soothe it, use a fragrance-free, alcohol-free moisturizer several times a day. If the tattoo remains red and swollen, consult your tattoo artist or a healthcare professional for advice on possible infection.

Days 15–30:
By now, most scabs should be gone, and any remaining flakes will fall off. The tattooed area may still look dry and dull, but it should start to feel smoother. Continue moisturizing until the skin appears hydrated again. By the second or third week, the outer skin layers will have healed, but deeper layers may take 3–4 months to fully heal.

Expect your tattoo to look bright and vivid again by the end of the third month.

Tips for Long-Term Tattoo Care:
Once your tattoo has healed, it’s important to maintain its appearance.

  • Hydrate: Drink plenty of water to support overall health and keep your skin elastic.
  • Sun Protection: Apply sunscreen to protect your tattoo from UV damage and keep the colors vibrant.
  • Avoid Rapid Weight Fluctuations: Rapid weight gain or loss can stretch and distort your tattoo.

SELECTING THE BEST SKIN CARE PRODUCTS FOR TATTOO AFTERCARE

USE SOAP

Always opt for a mild, fragrance-free soap or a specially formulated tattoo cleanser to clean the tattooed area.

Many tattoo artists recommend:

  • Dr. Bronner’s 18-in-1 Hemp Baby Unscented Pure-Castile Soap
  • Dove Sensitive Skin Beauty Bar
  • Dial Gold Antibacterial Soap (although not fragrance-free, some artists recommend it)

USE OINTMENT


For the first day or two, some artists suggest using A+D Original Ointment. Afterward, you can switch to Aquaphor Healing Ointment or Dr. Bronner’s Unscented Organic Magic Balm.

USE LOTION

After the first week, you can switch to a lotion to keep the skin hydrated. Just ensure it is free of fragrances, ethyl alcohol, and additives like colored dyes that can dry out your skin.

Some recommended lotions are:

  • Lubriderm Daily Moisture Lotion
  • Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion

AVOID 100% PETROLEUM PRODUCTS

It’s best to avoid using products that are 100% petroleum-based, such as original Vaseline, during the initial healing process.

Petroleum products are thick and can trap moisture, preventing proper airflow to the tattoo. This can hinder healing and may even cause the ink to fade. Always choose products that allow your skin to breathe while supporting the healing process.

COMPLICATIONS DURING THE TATTOO HEALING PROCESS

While some discomfort and changes in your tattoo are normal, certain complications can arise. If symptoms persist or worsen, it’s important to consult with a healthcare professional.

INFECTION

Improper care of your tattoo can lead to an infection. Signs of infection include:

  • Redness, warmth, and pain around the tattooed area
  • Leaking pus or other unusual fluids

In rare cases, contamination of tattoo equipment or ink can lead to serious bloodborne infections like hepatitis B, hepatitis C, tetanus, or HIV. Non-tuberculous mycobacterial skin infections have also been reported.

ALLERGIC REACTION

If you’re allergic to the ink, you may experience a red, itchy reaction at the tattoo site. Red dyes are most likely to cause allergies, although blue and black dyes can also trigger skin reactions like photosensitivity. Always consult your artist or a healthcare professional if you suspect an allergic reaction.

SCARRING

Improper healing, such as picking at scabs or damage from the needle, can lead to scarring. Scar tissue can be permanent, so it’s important to avoid picking or scratching the tattoo while it heals.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1. When should you start aftercare for a new tattoo?
Aftercare begins immediately after your tattoo is completed. Your artist will typically apply a thin layer of antibiotic ointment and cover the tattoo with a bandage or plastic wrap. Follow their aftercare instructions on when to cleanse and what products to use.

2. How long should you keep your tattoo covered after your appointment?
Keep the dressing on for the duration recommended by your artist, typically anywhere from a few hours to a few days. The dressing prevents bacteria from entering, absorbs excess ink and fluid, and shields the tattoo from friction or irritation.

3. What is proper aftercare for a new tattoo?

  • Wash your hands thoroughly before removing the covering.
  • Gently cleanse the tattoo with warm water and fragrance-free soap.
  • Pat the skin dry with a soft cloth.
  • Apply a thin layer of fragrance-free and alcohol-free moisturizer.
  • Let your skin breathe by keeping the dressing off after initial care.
  • Follow this routine for the first few weeks and avoid sun exposure until fully healed.

4. What should you avoid after getting a new tattoo?

  • Avoid scratching or picking at your tattoo. Gently patting the area can relieve itching.
  • Avoid tight clothing that may rub or irritate the tattoo.
  • Stay away from bathtubs, hot tubs, pools, or submerging your tattoo in water.
  • Don’t apply sunblock until the tattoo has fully healed, and avoid direct sun exposure during healing.

5. Can you use Aquaphor on a new tattoo?
Yes, it’s generally safe to use a thin layer of Aquaphor Healing Ointment on a healing tattoo. Unlike pure petroleum jelly (like Vaseline), Aquaphor is more breathable and allows air to circulate, aiding the healing process without suffocating the skin.

CONCLUSION

A tattoo is not only a form of personal expression and art, but also a medical procedure. The artist uses a needle to deposit ink beneath your skin, which creates a wound. Anytime the skin is broken, there’s a risk of scarring and infection. Proper aftercare is essential to minimize these risks and promote healthy healing of your tattoo.

STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE: HOW TO MAKE HERBAL LIQUID SOAP FROM SCRATCH

Making liquid soap from scratch once seemed daunting to me, but after trying it, I discovered it’s much simpler than it looks!

If you’ve already mastered cold process or hot process soap making, then crafting liquid soap is a natural next step.

This guide was originally part of my newest print book, The Big Book of Homemade Products for Your Skin, Health & Home. Unfortunately, due to space constraints, it didn’t make the final cut—so I’m sharing the tips and recipes here with you instead. Enjoy!

Liquid Soapmaking Tips

Before you dive into making liquid soap, here are a few key points to keep in mind.

YOU’LL NEED A DIFFERENT TYPE OF LYE:

One major difference between liquid soap and bar soap lies in the type of lye used.

Bar soap hardens thanks to sodium hydroxide (NaOH), which acts as the agent that turns oils into solid soap.

Liquid soap, on the other hand, is made by combining oils with potassium hydroxide (KOH). This type of lye is readily available from Etsy or online soap-making suppliers.

Keep in mind that potassium hydroxide purity levels can vary. My recipes are based on 90% purity, a common standard. If your bottle lists a different purity level, you can adjust your recipe using the Soapee calculator. Simply select Liquid Soap – using KOH and input the lye purity number in the first box.

CROCKPOT SIZE FOR LIQUID SOAP:

For this recipe size, I use a 4-quart crock pot (slow cooker), which I picked up at a local big-box store. Make sure to avoid slow cookers with non-stick or Teflon-coated interiors, as these materials can react negatively with lye.

SUPERFAT IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN BAR SOAP:

Liquid soap differs slightly from bar soap in that it requires a lower superfat—typically no higher than 3%. A higher superfat may cause the soap to develop an oily layer.

YOU’LL NEED TO USE MORE WATER IN YOUR RECIPE:

When making liquid soap, the water amount is higher than in bar soap recipes. You’ll need roughly three times the weight of potassium hydroxide in water.

IT’S A GOOD IDEA TO DILUTE SOAP PASTE ONLY WITH WATER AND/OR GLYCERIN:

To ensure your liquid soap has the longest shelf life, dilute the finished soap paste with water or a combination of water and glycerin.

Avoid diluting with herbal teas or milk, as these can cause the soap to spoil more quickly—unless they were cooked into the recipe, like in the Calendula & Coconut Liquid Soap below.

OILS ACT DIFFERENTLY IN LIQUID SOAP THAN BAR SOAP:

When creating your own liquid soap recipes, remember that the choice of oils affects the soap’s consistency.

Using more olive oil results in a thicker soap, while more coconut oil creates a thinner soap.

For a deeper dive into how different oils impact liquid soap, check out this informative post on the Soapmaking Forum.

YOU HAVE LOTS OF HERBAL OPTIONS:

“There are many herbs you can experiment with beyond the ones listed in the recipes below. You can easily substitute them or omit them entirely, using plain oils and water in place of infused oils and herbal teas.

I’m currently working on a resource to provide more detailed options, but in the meantime, here are a few herbs and flowers you might consider exploring:

  • Chamomile
  • Plantain
  • Calendula
  • Dandelion
  • Sunflower
  • Violet leaf”

MY WAY IS NOT THE ONLY WAY:

First and foremost, it’s important to note that this is how I make liquid soap—it’s just one of many methods, not necessarily the best or only method.

There are many fantastic resources available for learning how to make liquid soap. Here are a few to get you started:

  • Soapmaking Forum (I frequently recommend this site; it’s an invaluable resource for soapmakers.) – Liquid Soap & Cream Soap Forum
  • Ultimate HP Soap – 30-Minute Liquid Soap
  • Wholesale Supplies Plus – Learn to Make: Liquid Soap From Scratch
  • Modern Soapmaking – Easy & Quick Tips for Making Liquid Soap Successfully

A quick search for ‘liquid soap’ on any search engine will lead you to even more helpful information!

Liquid Soap Making Overview

Step 1:
Weigh the oils for your recipe and place them into a slow cooker. Turn the heat to high. If you’re using milk powder, briefly blend it into the combined oils using an immersion blender.

Step 2:
Place the distilled water or cooled herbal tea in a stainless steel or heatproof plastic container. While wearing gloves and goggles, weigh out the potassium hydroxide and carefully sprinkle it into the water. Stir well. It’s normal for the lye solution to make a crackling noise when it’s first mixed.

Step 3:
Turn the slow cooker’s heat to low, then pour in the lye solution. Hand stir the mixture for about 5 minutes to ensure it’s fully incorporated. After that, begin blending with your immersion blender. Blend for 1 minute, then allow the blender to rest for a few minutes before blending again for another minute. Avoid running the motor continuously to prevent burning it out. It may take anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes to reach trace.

Step 4:
Keep the heat on low, cover the slow cooker with its lid, and check the mixture every 20 to 30 minutes. Stir with a heatproof spoon or spatula. The soap will start to darken and develop gel-like spots, with other areas separating into clear or cloudy liquid. This is completely normal—just stir everything back together, replace the lid, and continue cooking.

Step 5:
After 1 to 2 hours, the soap batter should become thicker and more concentrated. Continue cooking for another 30 minutes to 1 hour, or until the soap is glossy and resembles Vaseline, as shown in the photo. The total cook time for liquid soap may vary between 2 to 4 hours, depending on the temperature settings of your slow cooker.

Step 6 (Optional):
To check if the soap is fully saponified, you can perform an old-fashioned zap test to ensure there’s no residual lye.

To do this, scoop out 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of soap paste and allow it to cool to a safe, comfortable temperature. Mix the cooled paste with 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of distilled water. Dip your fingertip into the diluted paste and taste it with just the tip of your tongue (don’t swallow the soap!). If it gives your tongue a zapping or electric feeling, the soap needs more cooking. If it just tastes like soap without any zappy sensation, the soap is ready. Be sure to rinse your mouth thoroughly with cold water afterward.

If you’d prefer not to taste the soap but are still unsure, you can turn off the slow cooker, keep the soap covered, and let it sit for 6 hours or overnight to finish the saponification process on its own before proceeding with the next steps of the recipe.

Step 7:
Store the soap paste in covered jars if you want to dilute small amounts at a time. This method extends the shelf life of the undiluted soap paste, which can last for several years. If you choose to dilute the entire batch at once, the shelf life will be shorter. The pH of finished diluted soap typically ranges from 9 to 10.5, and because of its natural alkalinity, it generally doesn’t require a preservative for home use—provided it’s diluted with only distilled water or vegetable glycerine. However, those who sell liquid soap or prefer extra protection often add a preservative like Liquid Germall Plus. I personally don’t add preservatives to my soap, but it’s your choice.

Step 8:
To determine the starting dilution amount, weigh the fully cooked soap paste and multiply the weight by 0.2 (20%) to find how much glycerine you need. Then, multiply the weight by 0.8 (80%) to figure out how much distilled water is required.

For example, if your soap batch weighs 30 ounces (850 g), you would need 6 oz (170 g) glycerine and 24 oz (680 g) distilled water.
If you prefer to dilute a smaller amount, such as 4 ounces of paste, you’d need 0.8 oz (23 g) glycerine and 3.2 oz (91 g) distilled water.

If you don’t have glycerine or choose not to use it, simply substitute more distilled water in its place.

Step 9:
Combine the glycerine and distilled water in a deep stainless steel saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the soap paste to the boiling mixture, stirring gently to ensure the paste is covered by the liquid. Then, cover the pan and turn off the heat, leaving it on the still-hot burner. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally and mashing with a fork, spatula, or potato masher to break up any lumps.

Repeat the boiling and cooling process 1 to 2 more times, allowing the soap paste to dissolve completely. Don’t rush this step or stir too vigorously, as the process takes time. Leave the mixture at room temperature for 2 to 3 days, stirring occasionally, until the paste is fully dissolved.

Step 10:
To add fragrance, gently warm the soap one last time, but do not allow it to simmer or boil. Once the soap is warmed (around 100°F), stir in the essential oil. To calculate the right amount, use 1% of the total diluted soap weight. For example, if you have 8 ounces (237 ml) of diluted soap, you would use 0.08 ounces or about 2.4 ml of essential oil, which is approximately ½ teaspoon. You can also use EO Calc for more precise measurements.

Some essential oils, such as lavender, blend well into liquid soap, while others may cause cloudiness or separation. If this is the case, you might want to use a solubilizer to keep the essential oils mixed evenly. A future article will go into more detail on adding essential oils to liquid soap.

Step 11:
Pour the diluted soap into jars using a fine mesh strainer to catch any undissolved lumps. Let the soap sit undisturbed for several days so it can settle and clear. While the soap can technically be used immediately, giving it time to rest will improve its clarity.

Liquid Soap Recipes

Here are two recipes to kick off your liquid soapmaking journey. You can also check out the Dandelion & Honey Liquid Soap recipe already published on my site. Use the Soapee Calculator, the tips shared earlier in this article, and your creativity to experiment and create your own unique liquid soap recipes!

CALENDULA & COCONUT LIQUID SOAP

This soap captures the essence of sunshine in a jar, thanks to the bright yellow color from calendula flower-infused coconut oil. For added nourishment and appeal, I included a small amount of coconut milk powder in the oils, but you can also use cow or goat milk powder, or skip it altogether. Just keep in mind that milk powders should be used in small amounts for liquid soap to avoid scorching during the long cook time.

It’s important not to dilute soap paste with fresh milk, as it can spoil easily. For more on how to make calendula-infused oil, check out my article on Calendula Oil & Salve.

Yield: 60 ounces (1.7 kg) of diluted soap

Ingredients:

  • 13.75 oz (390 g) distilled water
  • 4.63 oz (131 g) potassium hydroxide (3% superfat)
  • 8 oz (227 g) calendula-infused coconut oil (40%)
  • 3 oz (85 g) castor oil (15%)
  • 9 oz (255 g) high oleic sunflower oil (45%)
  • 1/2 tsp coconut milk powder
  • Up to 6 oz (170 g) vegetable glycerine, for dilution (or more distilled water)
  • Up to 24 oz (680 g) distilled water, for dilution
  • Equal amounts of orange and grapefruit essential oils (see step 10 in the Liquid Soap Making Overview for how to calculate essential oil amounts)

Directions:

  1. In a stainless steel or heatproof plastic container, place the distilled water. Wearing gloves and goggles, weigh out the potassium hydroxide and carefully add it to the water. Stir well and set the lye solution aside.
  2. Weigh the coconut, castor, and sunflower oils into a slow cooker. Blend in the coconut milk powder using an immersion blender. Turn the heat to low, then pour in the lye solution. Alternate between blending with the immersion blender and stirring by hand until trace is reached.
  3. Keep the heat on low, cover the slow cooker with the lid, and check every 30 minutes. Stir with a heatproof spoon or spatula. Continue cooking for approximately 2 to 3 hours.
  4. Store the paste in covered jars. Follow the dilution and scenting guidelines in the full Liquid Soap Making Overview.

HEMP & PLANTAIN LIQUID SOAP

This soap combines plantain-infused coconut oil, extra virgin olive oil, and nourishing hemp oil for a truly unique blend. It’s lightly scented with lavender essential oil, though you can skip the scent for a more natural version.

Note: I used rich, unrefined hemp seed oil from Mountain Rose Herbs to give the soap a subtle green hue. However, hemp seed oil has a shorter shelf life, so it’s best to use this soap within 4 to 6 months. Over time, the green hue may fade to a brownish color, though the soap remains effective and fragrant. I’ve had a jar of this recipe for over a year, and it’s still good, but the color has changed.

Yield: 60 ounces (1.7 kg) diluted soap

Ingredients:

  • 13.75 oz (390 g) distilled water
  • 4.63 oz (131 g) potassium hydroxide (2% superfat)
  • 7 oz (198 g) plantain-infused coconut oil (35%)
  • 2 oz (57 g) castor oil (10%)
  • 6 oz (170 g) extra virgin olive oil (30%)
  • 4 oz (113 g) high oleic sunflower oil (20%)
  • 1 oz (28 g) unrefined hemp or avocado oil (5%)
  • Up to 6 oz (170 g) vegetable glycerine, for dilution (or more distilled water)
  • Up to 24 oz (680 g) distilled water, for dilution
  • Lavender essential oil (see step 10 in the Liquid Soap Making Overview for how to calculate essential oil amounts)

Directions:

  1. Place the distilled water in a stainless steel or heatproof plastic container. Wearing gloves and goggles, carefully weigh out the potassium hydroxide and sprinkle it into the water. Stir well, and set the lye solution aside.
  2. Weigh the coconut, castor, olive, sunflower, and hemp oils into a slow cooker. Turn the heat to low, then pour in the lye solution. Alternate between using an immersion blender and stirring by hand until trace is reached.
  3. Keep the heat on low, cover the slow cooker with the lid, and check every 30 minutes. Stir with a heatproof spoon or spatula. Continue cooking for approximately 2 to 3 hours.
  4. Store the soap paste in covered jars. Follow the dilution and scenting guidelines in the full Liquid Soap Making Overview.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, making your own liquid soap allows for creative freedom in selecting nourishing oils, natural ingredients, and essential oils to customize the formula to your needs. With the right ingredients, like plantain-infused coconut oil, hemp oil, or calendula, and careful attention to the cooking and dilution process, you can create a luxurious, natural soap that’s both effective and gentle on the skin.

By following the detailed steps provided in the soapmaking process—from creating the lye solution to diluting the soap paste—you’ll be able to craft a product that suits your preferences. Whether you want a soothing lavender scent, a bright, sunny color from calendula, or a gentle, unscented bar, homemade liquid soap offers a unique, customizable experience. Remember that patience is key, and each batch will have its own characteristics, including color changes over time depending on the oils used.

So, whether you’re making soap for personal use or as a creative gift, the process is both rewarding and satisfying. Happy soapmaking!