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STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE: HOW TO MAKE HERBAL LIQUID SOAP FROM SCRATCH

Making liquid soap from scratch once seemed daunting to me, but after trying it, I discovered it’s much simpler than it looks!

If you’ve already mastered cold process or hot process soap making, then crafting liquid soap is a natural next step.

This guide was originally part of my newest print book, The Big Book of Homemade Products for Your Skin, Health & Home. Unfortunately, due to space constraints, it didn’t make the final cut—so I’m sharing the tips and recipes here with you instead. Enjoy!

Liquid Soapmaking Tips

Before you dive into making liquid soap, here are a few key points to keep in mind.

YOU’LL NEED A DIFFERENT TYPE OF LYE:

One major difference between liquid soap and bar soap lies in the type of lye used.

Bar soap hardens thanks to sodium hydroxide (NaOH), which acts as the agent that turns oils into solid soap.

Liquid soap, on the other hand, is made by combining oils with potassium hydroxide (KOH). This type of lye is readily available from Etsy or online soap-making suppliers.

Keep in mind that potassium hydroxide purity levels can vary. My recipes are based on 90% purity, a common standard. If your bottle lists a different purity level, you can adjust your recipe using the Soapee calculator. Simply select Liquid Soap – using KOH and input the lye purity number in the first box.

CROCKPOT SIZE FOR LIQUID SOAP:

For this recipe size, I use a 4-quart crock pot (slow cooker), which I picked up at a local big-box store. Make sure to avoid slow cookers with non-stick or Teflon-coated interiors, as these materials can react negatively with lye.

SUPERFAT IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN BAR SOAP:

Liquid soap differs slightly from bar soap in that it requires a lower superfat—typically no higher than 3%. A higher superfat may cause the soap to develop an oily layer.

YOU’LL NEED TO USE MORE WATER IN YOUR RECIPE:

When making liquid soap, the water amount is higher than in bar soap recipes. You’ll need roughly three times the weight of potassium hydroxide in water.

IT’S A GOOD IDEA TO DILUTE SOAP PASTE ONLY WITH WATER AND/OR GLYCERIN:

To ensure your liquid soap has the longest shelf life, dilute the finished soap paste with water or a combination of water and glycerin.

Avoid diluting with herbal teas or milk, as these can cause the soap to spoil more quickly—unless they were cooked into the recipe, like in the Calendula & Coconut Liquid Soap below.

OILS ACT DIFFERENTLY IN LIQUID SOAP THAN BAR SOAP:

When creating your own liquid soap recipes, remember that the choice of oils affects the soap’s consistency.

Using more olive oil results in a thicker soap, while more coconut oil creates a thinner soap.

For a deeper dive into how different oils impact liquid soap, check out this informative post on the Soapmaking Forum.

YOU HAVE LOTS OF HERBAL OPTIONS:

“There are many herbs you can experiment with beyond the ones listed in the recipes below. You can easily substitute them or omit them entirely, using plain oils and water in place of infused oils and herbal teas.

I’m currently working on a resource to provide more detailed options, but in the meantime, here are a few herbs and flowers you might consider exploring:

  • Chamomile
  • Plantain
  • Calendula
  • Dandelion
  • Sunflower
  • Violet leaf”

MY WAY IS NOT THE ONLY WAY:

First and foremost, it’s important to note that this is how I make liquid soap—it’s just one of many methods, not necessarily the best or only method.

There are many fantastic resources available for learning how to make liquid soap. Here are a few to get you started:

  • Soapmaking Forum (I frequently recommend this site; it’s an invaluable resource for soapmakers.) – Liquid Soap & Cream Soap Forum
  • Ultimate HP Soap – 30-Minute Liquid Soap
  • Wholesale Supplies Plus – Learn to Make: Liquid Soap From Scratch
  • Modern Soapmaking – Easy & Quick Tips for Making Liquid Soap Successfully

A quick search for ‘liquid soap’ on any search engine will lead you to even more helpful information!

Liquid Soap Making Overview

Step 1:
Weigh the oils for your recipe and place them into a slow cooker. Turn the heat to high. If you’re using milk powder, briefly blend it into the combined oils using an immersion blender.

Step 2:
Place the distilled water or cooled herbal tea in a stainless steel or heatproof plastic container. While wearing gloves and goggles, weigh out the potassium hydroxide and carefully sprinkle it into the water. Stir well. It’s normal for the lye solution to make a crackling noise when it’s first mixed.

Step 3:
Turn the slow cooker’s heat to low, then pour in the lye solution. Hand stir the mixture for about 5 minutes to ensure it’s fully incorporated. After that, begin blending with your immersion blender. Blend for 1 minute, then allow the blender to rest for a few minutes before blending again for another minute. Avoid running the motor continuously to prevent burning it out. It may take anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes to reach trace.

Step 4:
Keep the heat on low, cover the slow cooker with its lid, and check the mixture every 20 to 30 minutes. Stir with a heatproof spoon or spatula. The soap will start to darken and develop gel-like spots, with other areas separating into clear or cloudy liquid. This is completely normal—just stir everything back together, replace the lid, and continue cooking.

Step 5:
After 1 to 2 hours, the soap batter should become thicker and more concentrated. Continue cooking for another 30 minutes to 1 hour, or until the soap is glossy and resembles Vaseline, as shown in the photo. The total cook time for liquid soap may vary between 2 to 4 hours, depending on the temperature settings of your slow cooker.

Step 6 (Optional):
To check if the soap is fully saponified, you can perform an old-fashioned zap test to ensure there’s no residual lye.

To do this, scoop out 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of soap paste and allow it to cool to a safe, comfortable temperature. Mix the cooled paste with 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of distilled water. Dip your fingertip into the diluted paste and taste it with just the tip of your tongue (don’t swallow the soap!). If it gives your tongue a zapping or electric feeling, the soap needs more cooking. If it just tastes like soap without any zappy sensation, the soap is ready. Be sure to rinse your mouth thoroughly with cold water afterward.

If you’d prefer not to taste the soap but are still unsure, you can turn off the slow cooker, keep the soap covered, and let it sit for 6 hours or overnight to finish the saponification process on its own before proceeding with the next steps of the recipe.

Step 7:
Store the soap paste in covered jars if you want to dilute small amounts at a time. This method extends the shelf life of the undiluted soap paste, which can last for several years. If you choose to dilute the entire batch at once, the shelf life will be shorter. The pH of finished diluted soap typically ranges from 9 to 10.5, and because of its natural alkalinity, it generally doesn’t require a preservative for home use—provided it’s diluted with only distilled water or vegetable glycerine. However, those who sell liquid soap or prefer extra protection often add a preservative like Liquid Germall Plus. I personally don’t add preservatives to my soap, but it’s your choice.

Step 8:
To determine the starting dilution amount, weigh the fully cooked soap paste and multiply the weight by 0.2 (20%) to find how much glycerine you need. Then, multiply the weight by 0.8 (80%) to figure out how much distilled water is required.

For example, if your soap batch weighs 30 ounces (850 g), you would need 6 oz (170 g) glycerine and 24 oz (680 g) distilled water.
If you prefer to dilute a smaller amount, such as 4 ounces of paste, you’d need 0.8 oz (23 g) glycerine and 3.2 oz (91 g) distilled water.

If you don’t have glycerine or choose not to use it, simply substitute more distilled water in its place.

Step 9:
Combine the glycerine and distilled water in a deep stainless steel saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the soap paste to the boiling mixture, stirring gently to ensure the paste is covered by the liquid. Then, cover the pan and turn off the heat, leaving it on the still-hot burner. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally and mashing with a fork, spatula, or potato masher to break up any lumps.

Repeat the boiling and cooling process 1 to 2 more times, allowing the soap paste to dissolve completely. Don’t rush this step or stir too vigorously, as the process takes time. Leave the mixture at room temperature for 2 to 3 days, stirring occasionally, until the paste is fully dissolved.

Step 10:
To add fragrance, gently warm the soap one last time, but do not allow it to simmer or boil. Once the soap is warmed (around 100°F), stir in the essential oil. To calculate the right amount, use 1% of the total diluted soap weight. For example, if you have 8 ounces (237 ml) of diluted soap, you would use 0.08 ounces or about 2.4 ml of essential oil, which is approximately ½ teaspoon. You can also use EO Calc for more precise measurements.

Some essential oils, such as lavender, blend well into liquid soap, while others may cause cloudiness or separation. If this is the case, you might want to use a solubilizer to keep the essential oils mixed evenly. A future article will go into more detail on adding essential oils to liquid soap.

Step 11:
Pour the diluted soap into jars using a fine mesh strainer to catch any undissolved lumps. Let the soap sit undisturbed for several days so it can settle and clear. While the soap can technically be used immediately, giving it time to rest will improve its clarity.

Liquid Soap Recipes

Here are two recipes to kick off your liquid soapmaking journey. You can also check out the Dandelion & Honey Liquid Soap recipe already published on my site. Use the Soapee Calculator, the tips shared earlier in this article, and your creativity to experiment and create your own unique liquid soap recipes!

CALENDULA & COCONUT LIQUID SOAP

This soap captures the essence of sunshine in a jar, thanks to the bright yellow color from calendula flower-infused coconut oil. For added nourishment and appeal, I included a small amount of coconut milk powder in the oils, but you can also use cow or goat milk powder, or skip it altogether. Just keep in mind that milk powders should be used in small amounts for liquid soap to avoid scorching during the long cook time.

It’s important not to dilute soap paste with fresh milk, as it can spoil easily. For more on how to make calendula-infused oil, check out my article on Calendula Oil & Salve.

Yield: 60 ounces (1.7 kg) of diluted soap

Ingredients:

  • 13.75 oz (390 g) distilled water
  • 4.63 oz (131 g) potassium hydroxide (3% superfat)
  • 8 oz (227 g) calendula-infused coconut oil (40%)
  • 3 oz (85 g) castor oil (15%)
  • 9 oz (255 g) high oleic sunflower oil (45%)
  • 1/2 tsp coconut milk powder
  • Up to 6 oz (170 g) vegetable glycerine, for dilution (or more distilled water)
  • Up to 24 oz (680 g) distilled water, for dilution
  • Equal amounts of orange and grapefruit essential oils (see step 10 in the Liquid Soap Making Overview for how to calculate essential oil amounts)

Directions:

  1. In a stainless steel or heatproof plastic container, place the distilled water. Wearing gloves and goggles, weigh out the potassium hydroxide and carefully add it to the water. Stir well and set the lye solution aside.
  2. Weigh the coconut, castor, and sunflower oils into a slow cooker. Blend in the coconut milk powder using an immersion blender. Turn the heat to low, then pour in the lye solution. Alternate between blending with the immersion blender and stirring by hand until trace is reached.
  3. Keep the heat on low, cover the slow cooker with the lid, and check every 30 minutes. Stir with a heatproof spoon or spatula. Continue cooking for approximately 2 to 3 hours.
  4. Store the paste in covered jars. Follow the dilution and scenting guidelines in the full Liquid Soap Making Overview.

HEMP & PLANTAIN LIQUID SOAP

This soap combines plantain-infused coconut oil, extra virgin olive oil, and nourishing hemp oil for a truly unique blend. It’s lightly scented with lavender essential oil, though you can skip the scent for a more natural version.

Note: I used rich, unrefined hemp seed oil from Mountain Rose Herbs to give the soap a subtle green hue. However, hemp seed oil has a shorter shelf life, so it’s best to use this soap within 4 to 6 months. Over time, the green hue may fade to a brownish color, though the soap remains effective and fragrant. I’ve had a jar of this recipe for over a year, and it’s still good, but the color has changed.

Yield: 60 ounces (1.7 kg) diluted soap

Ingredients:

  • 13.75 oz (390 g) distilled water
  • 4.63 oz (131 g) potassium hydroxide (2% superfat)
  • 7 oz (198 g) plantain-infused coconut oil (35%)
  • 2 oz (57 g) castor oil (10%)
  • 6 oz (170 g) extra virgin olive oil (30%)
  • 4 oz (113 g) high oleic sunflower oil (20%)
  • 1 oz (28 g) unrefined hemp or avocado oil (5%)
  • Up to 6 oz (170 g) vegetable glycerine, for dilution (or more distilled water)
  • Up to 24 oz (680 g) distilled water, for dilution
  • Lavender essential oil (see step 10 in the Liquid Soap Making Overview for how to calculate essential oil amounts)

Directions:

  1. Place the distilled water in a stainless steel or heatproof plastic container. Wearing gloves and goggles, carefully weigh out the potassium hydroxide and sprinkle it into the water. Stir well, and set the lye solution aside.
  2. Weigh the coconut, castor, olive, sunflower, and hemp oils into a slow cooker. Turn the heat to low, then pour in the lye solution. Alternate between using an immersion blender and stirring by hand until trace is reached.
  3. Keep the heat on low, cover the slow cooker with the lid, and check every 30 minutes. Stir with a heatproof spoon or spatula. Continue cooking for approximately 2 to 3 hours.
  4. Store the soap paste in covered jars. Follow the dilution and scenting guidelines in the full Liquid Soap Making Overview.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, making your own liquid soap allows for creative freedom in selecting nourishing oils, natural ingredients, and essential oils to customize the formula to your needs. With the right ingredients, like plantain-infused coconut oil, hemp oil, or calendula, and careful attention to the cooking and dilution process, you can create a luxurious, natural soap that’s both effective and gentle on the skin.

By following the detailed steps provided in the soapmaking process—from creating the lye solution to diluting the soap paste—you’ll be able to craft a product that suits your preferences. Whether you want a soothing lavender scent, a bright, sunny color from calendula, or a gentle, unscented bar, homemade liquid soap offers a unique, customizable experience. Remember that patience is key, and each batch will have its own characteristics, including color changes over time depending on the oils used.

So, whether you’re making soap for personal use or as a creative gift, the process is both rewarding and satisfying. Happy soapmaking!

90S MOVIES FASHION: TIMELESS TRENDS AND THEIR MODERN INFLUENCES

Over the past two decades, the fashion of the 90s has remained a timeless source of inspiration for both designers and movie enthusiasts. With 90s trends firmly back in vogue, now is the perfect time to revisit some of the decade’s most stylish movie characters. From Cher Horowitz’s iconic yellow plaid ensemble to Mia Wallace’s classic white button-up shirt and The Dude’s cozy Pendleton cardigan, these legendary outfits have influenced countless runway shows and Halloween costumes since they first graced the silver screen over twenty years ago.

ROMEO & JULIET, 1996

The 1996 adaptation of Shakespeare’s iconic tragedy Romeo and Juliet reimagines the classic tale by replacing its traditional Italian countryside setting and Elizabethan costumes with a vibrant seaside town called Verona Beach, complete with Hawaiian shirts. Even if Shakespeare isn’t your usual preference, the poignant romance between a young, charismatic Leonardo DiCaprio and Claire Danes makes it a worthwhile watch for a Friday night.

The film features striking costumes designed by Kym Barrett, the renowned costume designer known for her work on The Matrix trilogy, Cloud Atlas, and Aquaman. Tybalt’s crew, portrayed by John Leguizamo and his gang, wears custom pieces from the now-defunct Dolce & Gabbana diffusion line, inspired by Latin gangs in Los Angeles and Mexico City during the early 90s. In contrast, Romeo and his friends sport unbuttoned Hawaiian shirts, loose cargo pants, worn-out Converse sneakers, and brightly colored hair, perfectly capturing their youthful, rebellious spirit.

DAZED AND CONFUSED, 1993

Dazed and Confused takes us back to a Texas high school in 1976, following a group of lovable hippies on their final day of school. While the film is widely recognized as a breakout role for future stars like Matthew McConaughey, Ben Affleck, Parker Posey, and Milla Jovovich, it’s costume designer Katherine Dover’s keen eye for vintage fashion that truly shines.

The film features a delightful blend of 90s and 70s styles, predominantly showcasing authentic vintage pieces from the era, such as flared jeans, platform clogs, and peasant blouses, all of which remain stylish today. Each character’s distinct personal style signals their clique affiliation and hints at just how many times they’ll indulge throughout the film. So, it goes without saying that we wholeheartedly recommend rolling a joint or two while you enjoy this classic!

FIGHT CLUB, 1999

While the first rule of Fight Club is to avoid discussing it, we’re breaking that rule to shine a light on the film’s iconic costumes. This cult classic follows a nameless narrator (Edward Norton) as he spirals deeper into the chaotic world of soap-maker Tyler Durden (Brad Pitt) and his underground fight club.

The film’s dark narrative and carefully curated costumes reflect its anti-establishment themes and critique of capitalist consumer culture. Tyler’s striking blood-red leather jacket, low-slung pants, and eclectic prints create a stark contrast to the narrator’s ill-fitting suits and Marla Singer’s (Helena Bonham Carter) shabby-chic, dumpster-diving style.

In the twenty-plus years since Fight Club was released, numerous designers have drawn inspiration from its dark satire. Shortly after the film debuted in 1999, Donatella Versace labeled the brand’s Fall 2000 collection as “a Fight Club collection,” although the designs bore little resemblance to the film’s costumes. Additionally, Jean-Paul Gaultier took cues from this cult classic for his Fall 2010 collaboration with Everlast, featuring a boxing-inspired collection complete with mesh tank tops, ringside robes, track pants, and leather jackets.

NEVER BEEN KISSED, 1999

Never Been Kissed wouldn’t be the same without its campy, over-the-top 90s fashion, crafted by the legendary costume designer Mona May. The rom-com follows copy editor Josie Gellar (Drew Barrymore) as she goes undercover as a high school student, reliving the traumas of her own past through a series of flashbacks to her days as “Josie Gross-ie.”

The film’s costumes reflect Josie’s journey from an awkward teenager to a confident young adult. Her exaggerated 80s prom dress and the white feather-trimmed outfit she wears on her first day of school illustrate her struggles to fit in and become someone she’s not. In contrast, her pink lace dress in the final scene signifies her realization of who she truly is, marking her transformation and acceptance of herself.

BASIC INSTINCT, 1992

Basic Instinct embodies all the elements of a thrilling crime drama, featuring steamy encounters, brutal murder, and irresistible 90s style. The film follows detective Nick Curran (Michael Douglas) as he investigates the murder of a former rock star, becoming romantically involved with the primary suspect, the seductive and manipulative novelist Catherine Tramell (Sharon Stone).

While Catherine’s iconic turtleneck dress and white shawl overcoat from the infamous leg-crossing interrogation scene is undoubtedly the standout costume, all of her minimalist 90s outfits are enviably stylish. Costume designer Ellen Mirojnick drew inspiration for the film’s lead characters from the glamorous blonde bombshells and sophisticated suits found in Hitchcock classics like Dial M for Murder, To Catch a Thief, and Rear Window. Catherine’s wardrobe features light colors, relaxed silhouettes, and simple knits, providing a refreshing contrast to the typical skintight black ensembles worn by femme fatale characters in Hollywood.

“I thought the costumes and the look of the film were extremely classic,” Mirojnick remarked in an interview with Clothes on Film. “The contemporary feel of the film is even more relevant today. It is a timeless piece.”

THE BIG LEBOWSKI, 1998

At first glance, The Big Lebowski may not appear to be a fashion triumph, but its relaxed stoner style has achieved legendary status. The film follows “the Dude” (Jeff Bridges), a laid-back slacker who enjoys pot, White Russians, and bowling with his friends as they navigate a high-stakes case of mistaken identity. The Dude’s wardrobe, featuring bowling shirts, jelly sandals, a tattered bathrobe, unkempt long hair, stretched-out t-shirts, slouchy board shorts, and faded zip-up hoodies, perfectly embodies the anti-fashion aesthetic of carefree hippies and middle-aged men in the late 90s and early 2000s.

Over the past two decades, the Dude’s Pendleton Westerly cardigan has become an iconic symbol of the film. Costume designer Mary Zophres explained, “One of the first lines in the script describes the Dude as ‘terminally relaxed.’ That says a lot! So I decided the Dude would wear a lot of elastic waists so he doesn’t have to bother with buttons; he never wears a button-down shirt either, just things that pull over his head and a lot of knits.” The humble Dude sweater gained such popularity among fans that Pendleton even relaunched it as part of their permanent The Dude’s Collection.

THELMA & LOUISE, 1991

Thelma & Louise follows two best friends on a joyride through the desert as they escape their pasts and elude the police. The film’s straightforward yet impactful costumes, designed by the late Elizabeth McBride, effectively highlight the contrasts between Thelma (Geena Davis) and Louise (Susan Sarandon) while reflecting their personal evolution throughout the narrative. Plus, they help make young Brad Pitt look like an absolute heartthrob.

As the film progresses, both characters’ styles transform from sweet and feminine to tough and masculine as they shed their old lives. Thelma starts off as a naive housewife in frilly white blouses and silky florals, but as she discovers her freedom, her wardrobe shifts to grungy denim, baseball caps, and basic tees. Similarly, Louise trades her waitress uniform for masculine white tees, aviators, and jeans that challenge gender norms, perfectly capturing her tough, rebellious spirit.

ROMY AND MICHELE’S HIGH SCHOOL REUNION, 1997

Romy and Michele’s High School Reunion is undoubtedly one of the ultimate 90s fashion films. This campy comedy follows stylish best friends Romy White (Mira Sorvino) and Michele Weinberger (Lisa Kudrow) as they concoct an elaborate lie to impress their former classmates at their ten-year high school reunion. Kudrow and Sorvino’s playful mini skirts, cherry accessories, sky-high platform heels, and perfectly coordinated outfits define their characters as the quintessential ditzy blondes with enviable 90s style.

As with many iconic 90s films, the costumes were designed by Mona May, the stylist behind other sartorial gems like The Wedding Singer, Clueless, A Night at the Roxbury, and Never Been Kissed. Throughout the film, Romy and Michele undergo nearly 50 outfit changes, showcasing everything from feather-trimmed spandex mini dresses to chic mini skirts and crop tops, and even Madonna-inspired 80s prom ensembles.

PRETTY WOMAN, 1990

Pretty Woman encapsulates everything you could desire from a 90s romantic comedy: love, extravagant shopping sprees, a successful businessman who is both charming and kind, and, of course, Julia Roberts. However, beneath its cliché tropes lies a film that earned Roberts her first Oscar nomination for Best Actress and secured a BAFTA for Best Costume Design for the talented Marilyn Vance.

This modern-day “prince and the pauper” tale follows Vivian Ward (Julia Roberts) as she evolves from streetwalker to Hollywood socialite after encountering millionaire Edward Lewis (Richard Gere). Vivian’s stylish 90s wardrobe beautifully reflects her transformation and serves as a reminder not to judge appearances. “When she meets Richard Gere’s character, she notices how neat and stylish he is, prompting her own wardrobe to become more minimalist,” Vance explained in an interview with Vogue France.

At the film’s outset, Vivian can be seen in a go-go-inspired cut-out mini dress, complete with a newsboy cap and thigh-high boots as she navigates Hollywood Boulevard. A blonde wig conceals her signature red locks, symbolizing her hidden identity during this phase of her life. By the film’s conclusion, Roberts’ natural curls are elegantly cascading down her shoulders, highlighting her stunning off-the-shoulder red opera gown and that iconic necklace—boasting $1.35 million worth of pear-cut rubies set in diamond-encrusted hearts. This outfit perfectly embodies her metamorphosis and remains one of the film’s most unforgettable fashion moments.

POETIC JUSTICE, 1993

Set against the backdrop of a predominantly white film industry in the 90s, Poetic Justice delivers a vital dose of Black Girl Magic while exploring the effects of violence in Black communities. Directed by John Singleton, this film serves as a follow-up to his Oscar-nominated work Boyz n the Hood and follows Justice (Janet Jackson), a hairdresser grappling with the murder of her boyfriend Markell (Q-Tip). As she navigates her grief through poetry, she builds relationships with her friend Iesha (Regina King) and a young postal clerk named Lucky (Tupac Shakur).

The film’s costumes, designed by John Lemons and Sharlene Williams, capture the essence of early 90s Black fashion. Justice’s signature style features long box braids, baggy jeans, crop tops, hoop earrings, sports jerseys, and an oversized newsboy cap, creating a relaxed, homegirl-next-door vibe. This aesthetic not only defines her character but also sets the tone for women’s hip-hop fashion that would resonate for decades to come.

FEAR AND LOATHING IN LAS VEGAS, 1998

Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, based on Hunter S. Thompson’s 1971 novel, follows Raoul Duke (Johnny Depp) and his companion Dr. Gonzo (Benicio del Toro) on a wild, psychedelic drug-fueled journey to Las Vegas. Thompson famously advised, “The only way to prepare for a trip like this was to dress up like human peacocks and get crazy then screech off across the desert.”

Costume designer Julie Weiss embraced this eccentric vision, meticulously capturing Thompson’s unique personal style—from the plastic cigarette holder to the outrageous vacation outfits. The film features iconic pieces like yellow aviators, Hawaiian shirts, bucket hats, a patchwork cardigan, khaki shorts, and well-worn white Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars, all of which could easily have been pulled from Thompson’s own closet. In preparation for his role, Depp even lived in Thompson’s basement for four months, during which Thompson personally shaved Depp’s head to fully immerse him in the character.

PULP FICTION, 1994

The 90s cult classic Pulp Fiction weaves together the stories of two mob hitmen, a gangster and his stylish wife, a boxer, and various other criminals in Los Angeles. Critic Roger Ebert famously remarked that it was “either one of the year’s best films or the worst.” Like many Quentin Tarantino films, Pulp Fiction delivers a blend of violence, sharp dialogue, and quirky characters that inspire memorable Halloween costumes. And who could forget the iconic dance scene featuring John Travolta and Uma Thurman?

Costume designer Betsy Heimann drew inspiration from Japanese manga and Tarantino’s earlier film, Reservoir Dogs, to craft the film’s minimalist aesthetic. Mia Wallace (Uma Thurman) embodies a chic yet rebellious spirit in her white button-up shirt and cropped black pants, echoing the simple black suit, long hair, and bolo tie worn by Vincent Vega (John Travolta).

In an interview with Vogue, Heimann explained, “Mia Wallace: wife of the big boss, tons of money, but inside she’s kind of a bad girl. She wants these guys to like her. She’s totally barred from interacting with any man, so she has a chance to go out one night with Vincent, and she’s like, Well, I’m going to show them I’m a Reservoir Dog like they are.”

CRUEL INTENTIONS, 1999

From Kathryn Merteuil’s (Sarah Michelle Gellar) corset dress to Sebastian Valmont’s (Ryan Phillippe) impossibly stylish rimless glasses, the chic costumes in Cruel Intentions perfectly capture the essence of minimalist 90s fashion. This sexy teen drama explores the love triangles and revenge schemes of two step-siblings as they attempt to seduce the new girl at their Manhattan prep school. The film artfully balances innocence and power through its school uniforms and revealing outfits.

Costume designer Denise Wingate, known for her work on 90s classics like Melrose Place, She’s All That, and The Sweetest Thing, aligned each character’s style with their personality. The menacing step-siblings, Kathryn and Sebastian, predominantly wear dark colors, sexy silhouettes, and power suits that reflect their privileged status. In contrast, more virtuous characters like Annette Hargrove (played by a young Reese Witherspoon) and Cecile Caldwell (Selma Blair) sport lighter colors, conservative cuts, and preppy Upper East Side cardigans, highlighting their innocence and naivety. This contrast is famously exemplified in the film’s iconic kiss scene between Sarah Michelle Gellar and Selma Blair, which beautifully underscores this duality.

THE MATRIX, 1999

Like many science-fiction films, The Matrix uses its futuristic costumes to reflect the progressive themes and boundary-pushing social commentary woven throughout its storyline. Costume designer Kym Barrett emphasizes that every element of the film’s monochrome black outfits carries meaning. “It was all about how to create a language that the audience could clue into what we were doing subconsciously,” she explained, also noting her work on the sequels, The Matrix Reloaded and The Matrix Revolutions.

The 1999 film, featuring Keanu Reeves, Carrie-Anne Moss, and Laurence Fishburne, follows computer hacker Neo (Reeves) as he uncovers the truth about a reality manipulated by deceptive cyber-intelligence. The long leather coats, lug-sole boots, and skinny sunglasses encapsulate the anarchist, rebellious spirit of the film’s bullet-dodging heroes. Barrett compares the long leather coats to superhero capes, stating, “They can move in an almost gravity-defying way. They can jump across buildings; they can almost fly. I wanted to find a modern version of something that could move like a cape, so that’s where the coats were born.”

Over the past two decades, The Matrix’s rebellious themes and iconic all-black costumes have continued to inspire designers, celebrities, and fashionable movie buffs alike. John Galliano, for instance, cited being “deeply inspired by The Matrix” when creating the PVC coats and futuristic dresses for Christian Dior’s Fall 1999 Couture collection.

CLUELESS, 1995

When discussing 90s movie fashion, there’s no better starting point than Clueless. This campy coming-of-age story follows Cher Horowitz (Alicia Silverstone) and her partner in crime, Dionne (Stacey Dash), as they give their new friend Tai (Brittany Murphy) a much-needed makeover and help her navigate love. Cher alone sports over 30 different outfits throughout the film, ranging from argyle mini skirts to skimpy red tank dresses and sheer organza button-ups. Despite her casual name-dropping of high-end designers like Alaïa and Calvin Klein, many of the costumes were sourced from malls and thrift shops, thanks to the costume department’s limited budget.

Since its release in 1995, Clueless’s iconic plaid outfits—especially the yellow plaid skirt and blazer Cher selects from her futuristic closet in the opening scene—have cemented their status as some of the most influential movie costumes in fashion history. Over the past two decades, designers from Donatella Versace to Michael Kors have offered their own modern takes on Cher’s 90s style, featuring bright-colored plaid prints, slip dresses, mini skirts, and knee-high socks. “We really wanted to do the plaid because it was the quintessential schoolgirl outfit,” stylist Mona May explained in an interview with Vogue.

CONCLUSION

The 90s, a decade of cultural renaissance, left an indelible mark on fashion that continues to resonate today. From grunge to minimalism, the trends that emerged during this time have evolved and reemerged, influencing contemporary styles.

The enduring appeal of 90s fashion lies in its authenticity and rebellion. It was a time of experimentation and self-expression, resulting in iconic looks that captured the spirit of the era. As we look back on these trends, we can appreciate their timeless quality and the impact they have had on modern fashion.

Whether it’s the effortless cool of grunge, the minimalist elegance of slip dresses, or the nostalgic charm of chokers, the 90s fashion legacy continues to inspire designers and fashion enthusiasts alike. The trends of this decade serve as a testament to the cyclical nature of fashion, reminding us that while styles may come and go, the essence of what makes them enduring remains constant.