4 gauge in ear

CHINESE NEW YEAR RAT

Crochet your very own charming rat, featuring a cute protruding snout, floppy ears, a bendable tail, and the most endearing pose. This delightful creation is perfect for rat and mouse enthusiasts and makes a wonderful way to celebrate Chinese New Year!

MATERIALS NEEDED

  • Coboo Yarn (lightweight level 3) in White (~22 g) and Pink (~5 g)
  • 2.75 mm Clover Amour Hook
  • Yarn Needle (bent-tip helpful for attaching parts)
  • Fiberfill Stuffing
  • 7.5 mm Safety Eyes
  • Pink Embroidery Floss
  • Optional: Decorative Floral Wire (12 gauge) for tail

Notes

  • Work in continuous rounds to avoid seams (do not slip stitch at the end of each round).
  • For added facial depth, we’ll use the eye indentation technique to pull the safety eyes back and create more definition.
  • Be sure to check the blog posts on Amigurumi Basics, such as how to read patterns, the magic circle, invisible decrease, and more, to help you with the process.
  • Finished size: 3 inches (7.6 cm) tall, 2 inches (5 cm) wide (4.5 inches/11.4 cm from ear to ear).

Abbreviations

  • sc = Single Crochet
  • inc = Increase (2 sc in one stitch)
  • dec = Decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
  • ch = Chain
  • sl st = Slip Stitch
  • R = Round

INSTRUCTION

HEAD (USING WHITE YARN)

  • R1: 4 sc in magic ring (4 sts)
  • R2: Sc 1, inc 2 times (6 sts)
  • R3: Sc 2, inc 2 times (8 sts)
  • R4: Sc 3, inc 2 times (10 sts)
  • R5: Sc 4, inc 2 times (12 sts)
  • R6: Sc 4, inc x 4, Sc 4 (16 sts)
  • R7: Sc 8, inc x 2, Sc 6 (18 sts)
  • R8: Sc 6, inc, Sc 1 4 times, Sc 4 (22 sts)
  • R9: Sc 8, inc, Sc 1 4 times, Sc 6 (26 sts)
  • R10: Sc 14, inc x 2, Sc 10 (28 sts)
  • R11: Sc around (28 sts)
  • R12: Sc 16, inc x 2, Sc 10 (30 sts)
  • R13: Sc around (30 sts)
  • R14: Sc 18, inc x 2, Sc 10 (32 sts)
  • R15: Sc around (32 sts)
  • R16: Sc 6, dec 4 times (28 sts)
  • R17: Sc 5, dec 4 times (24 sts)
  • R18: Sc 4, dec 4 times (20 sts)

Insert the Safety Eyes: Place the 7.5 mm safety eyes between Rounds 9 and 10, about 11 stitches apart. Do not secure them yet.

Eye Indentation: Tie the long white yarn strands around each post of the safety eyes. Pull the yarn down in an “X” pattern inside the head, then pull the strands out through the head between Rounds 9 and 10. Stuff the head gently.
Note: Watch the technique in action here for better clarity.

  • R19: Sc 3, dec 4 times (16 sts)
  • R20: Sc 2, dec 4 times (12 sts)
  • R21: Dec around (6 sts)

Fasten off, closing the opening by pulling the yarn tight through the front loops. Weave in ends and tie off the eye indentation strands.

Add the Nose:
Use pink embroidery floss to stitch a small pink nose in the center of the magic ring.

OUTER EARS (MAKE 2 – USING WHITE YARN)

  • R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)
  • R2: Inc around (12 sts)
  • R3: Sc 1, inc 6 times (18 sts)
  • R4: Sc 2, inc 6 times (24 sts)
  • R5: Sc 3, inc 6 times (30 sts)
  • R6: Sc 4, inc 6 times (36 sts)
  • R7: Sc around (36 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

EAR LINING (MAKE 2 – USING PINK YARN)

  • R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)
  • R2: Inc around (12 sts)
  • R3: Sc 1, inc 6 times (18 sts)
  • R4: Sc 2, inc 6 times (24 sts)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Assembly of Ears: Place the pink ear lining inside the white outer ear (wrong sides facing). Attach by stitching through the back loops of the pink lining. Pinch the ear tips and fold them. Position the folded ears on the head between Rounds 14-16 and sew them in place.

BODY (USING WHITE YARN)

  • Ch 5 (foundation chain, will crochet around it).
  • R1: Starting from second ch from hook, sc 4 in back loops. Turn and sc 4 in front loops of the foundation chain (8 sts).
  • R2: Inc, sc 2, inc x 2, sc 2, inc (12 sts).
  • R3: Inc x 2, sc 4, inc x 2, sc 4 (16 sts).
  • R4: Sc 1, inc x 2, sc 5, inc x 2, sc 6 (20 sts).
  • R5: Sc around (20 sts).
  • R6-10: Sc around (20 sts).
  • R11: Sc 8, dec 2 times (18 sts).
  • R12: Sc 7, dec 2 times (16 sts).
  • R13: Sc 6, dec 2 times (14 sts).

Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

Optional: Pinch the bottom of the body to help it sit flat and secure it by threading yarn through the base of the body.

ARMS (MAKE 2 – USING PINK YARN)

  • R1: 4 sc in magic ring. Switch to white yarn and sl st to the next stitch.
  • R2-5: Sc around (4 sts).

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Attach the arms to the body, positioning them on Rounds 10-11, folding them inward so the pink tips meet.

LEGS/THIGHS (MAKE 2 – USING WHITE YARN)

  • Ch 4, then sc 3 in back loops of the foundation chain. Turn and sc 3 in front loops (6 sts).
  • R2: Inc, sc 1, inc x 2, sc 1, inc (10 sts).
  • R3: Sc 10 (10 sts).

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Attach the legs to the body on Rounds 5-7, ensuring they are spaced approximately 6 stitches apart.

FEET (MAKE 2 – USING PINK YARN)

  • R1: 4 sc in magic ring (4 sts).
  • R2-4: Sc 4 (4 sts).

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Attach the feet to the bottom of the body near the legs.

TAIL (USING PINK YARN)

  • R1: 3 sc in magic ring.
  • R2-21: Sc 3 (3 sts each round).

Optional: Insert a piece of floral wire into the tail for extra support. Attach the tail to the bottom back of the body.

CONCLUSION

The Year of the Rat, with its emphasis on intelligence, adaptability, and prosperity, offers a unique perspective on the Chinese New Year. As we bid farewell to this auspicious year, let us carry forward the spirit of the Rat – resourceful, quick-witted, and ever-optimistic. May the wisdom and resilience symbolized by the Rat guide us towards a future filled with success and harmony.

CHUNKY BEARA CROCHET EAGLAN SWEATER PATTERN

This chunky crochet raglan sweater is the perfect cozy staple for your winter wardrobe! It’s worked from the top down with #5 bulky yarn, making it a fast project, and you can even try it on as you go for the perfect fit.

The pattern includes 8 sizes (XS–4X) and uses just one simple stitch throughout, making it an ideal choice for beginners or anyone crocheting their first sweater or pullover.

Designed for a classic fit, you can easily achieve an oversized look by opting for a larger size. You can also adjust the sweater’s length by adding or removing body rounds to suit your style.

What you’ll need for this top down crochet sweater

Yarn

Any #5 bulky yarn will work wonderfully for this pattern. I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky for my sweater, a 100% acrylic yarn that’s perfect for those with wool sensitivities. Plus, with its wide range of available shades, you’re sure to find a color that matches your style!

Some suitable alternatives include:

  • WeCrochet Brava Bulky (100% Acrylic)
  • WeCrochet Wonderfluff (70% Baby Alpaca, 7% Merino Wool , 23% Nylon)
  • WeCrochet Mighty Stitch Bulky (80% Acrylic 20% Superwash Wool)
  • Lion Brand Hue and Me (80% Acrylic, 20% Wool)
  • Cascade 128 Superwash (100% Superwash Merino)

I crocheted my sweater in a solid color, but if you’re looking for a bit more flair, check out the inspiration below! Some talented ladies who tested this pattern created stunning striped versions that you’re sure to love!

Hook

For my sweater, I used a 6mm (J-10) crochet hook. If you tend to crochet tightly or loosely, you may need to adjust your hook size to match the gauge in the pattern. Going up or down a hook size will help you achieve the right fit and drape.

If this is your first time crocheting a sweater, it’s crucial to match the pattern gauge as closely as possible. This will help ensure your sweater turns out the correct size and fits as expected!

Other supplies

You’ll also need a yarn needle to weave in the ends and 5 stitch markers to mark the 4 raglan corner stitches and the first stitch of each round. (Trust me, I wouldn’t recommend attempting this pattern without stitch markers—they’re essential for keeping track of your work!)

Crochet Raglan Sweater Sizing

This sweater is designed with 3”–5” (7.5–12.5 cm) of positive ease at the bust. The term “ease” refers to the difference between your actual bust measurement and the finished garment measurement. In this pattern, the sweater is intentionally made to be slightly larger than your bust size, creating a relaxed fit, which is what we call “positive ease.”

The sizes in this pattern are based on the body measurements standardized by the Craft Yarn Council, ensuring a consistent and accurate fit across all sizes.

How to crochet this Chunky Raglan Sweater

This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down in a raglan style, meaning the sleeves are shaped as you crochet without the need for seaming, making it a smooth and easy-to-follow construction.

There are 2 things that I really love about this type of construction:

Seamless

That’s right—once you finish this sweater, it’s truly complete! There’s no seaming involved, just a few ends to weave in, making the finishing process quick and hassle-free.

Easy to adjust

One of my favorite aspects of top-down crochet sweaters is the ability to try them on and make adjustments as you go. For instance, if you find the underarm area a bit tight after finishing the yoke, you can easily add a few more even yoke rounds (without increases) before splitting for the sleeves and body.

Similarly, if you want to adjust the length of your sweater, you can simply add or subtract body rounds until you achieve the desired length. The same principle applies to the sleeves, allowing you to customize the fit to your preference!

A note on ribbing

Once you’ve completed the body of the sweater, the final step is to work the ribbing section. This ribbing is done directly into the last body row, joining it with a series of slip stitches.

You can find the full written instructions for this technique in the pattern below. However, if you’d like to see step-by-step photos and a video, check out my tutorial on “How to Attach Ribbing to Crochet.” While the tutorial focuses on attaching single crochet ribbing to a hat, the technique is exactly the same!

Crochet Raglan Inspiration

For some color inspiration, take a look at the stunning projects created by my talented testers! Their unique color combinations and creativity are sure to spark some ideas for your own sweater!

FINISHED SIZES

This sweater is designed with approximately 3”–5” (7.5 cm–12.5 cm) of positive ease at the bust, providing a comfortable and relaxed fit.

Note: The pattern PDF also includes a schematic for a visual representation of the measurements, making it easier to understand the sizing and fit.

GAUGE

Ribbing: 4 sts x 14 rows = 1″ x 4″ / 2.5cm x 10cm measured over sc (blo).

Body: 10 sts x 9 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10cm x 10cm measured over esc.

Materials

Hook:

6mm (J-10) crochet hook (or hook required to meet gauge)

Yarn:

Any #4/Medium/Worsted weight yarn in 2 colors.

The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky (136m/149yds per 100g skein; Weight 5/Bulky; 100% Acrylic).

XS: 861 yds / 787m  

S: 976 yds / 892m

M: 1061 yds / 970m

L: 1195 yds / 1093m 

XL: 1348 yds / 1233m

2XL: 1493 yds / 1365m         

3XL: 1673 yds / 1530m       

4XL: 1782 yds / 1629m

PATTERN NOTES

SKILL LEVEL

ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

  • ch = chain
  • st = stitch
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • esc = extended single crochet (see Special Stitches)
  • blo = back loop only
  • INC = Increase
  • DEC = Decrease
  • RS = Right Side
  • WS = Wrong Side
  • rem = remaining
  • beg = beginning
  • pm = place marker

Sizing

This sweater is designed with 3”–5” (7.5–12.5 cm) of positive ease at the bust. The sizes in this pattern are based on the body measurements established by the Craft Yarn Council.

Before you begin, take a moment to go through the pattern and highlight or mark the stitch and row counts corresponding to the size you are making. This will make your crocheting process much smoother and more manageable!

Construction

  • This garment is worked seamlessly from the top down, in a raglan style.
  • The garment is crocheted in 3 sections as follows:
  1. Yoke – begin with the neckline ribbing, then work the yoke rounds without turning, working 2 increases every 3 rounds.
  2. Body – split the yoke to create the armholes and work the body in the round. Finish with “join-as-you-go” ribbing.
  3. Sleeves – join yarn at the underarm on each side, and work sleeves in the round, decreasing evenly to the wrist. Again, finish each sleeve with “join-as-you-go” ribbing.
  • Each round begins and ends along the raglan line at the back right-hand side of your sweater; the “seam” will run diagonally along this line.
  • To adjust the length of the sweater body, or the sleeves, simply repeat the last round of the relevant section as required.

General Pattern Notes

  • Ch 1 at the start of each row/round does not count as a stitch.
  • All rounds are worked without turning. Join at the end of each round with a sl st.
  • Instructions are given for the smallest size, with all larger sizes given in parentheses ( ).
  • The stitch count for each row/round is given in [ ] at the end of the row/round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round/row.

Print-friendly PDF

The print-friendly PDF version of this pattern also contains:

  • Schematic (sweater construction and measurements)
  • Yoke Rounds 1 – 4 (step-by-step pictures)
  • Split for Armholes (step-by-step pictures)
  • Sleeve Round 1 (step-by-step pictures)
  • Table with yoke stitch counts for each round

SPECIAL STITCHES

Extended Single Crochet (esc)

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop i.e. ch 1. [2 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops.

Extended Single Crochet Two Together (esc2tog)

This stitch decreases the stitch count by 1.

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop i.e. ch 1. [2 loops on hook]

Step 3: Insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 4: Yarn over and pull up a loop i.e. ch 1. [3 loops on hook]

Step 5: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Written Pattern

YOKE

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

NECKLINE RIBBING

ROW 1: Leaving a long tail (for seaming), ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [7]

ROW 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc (blo) in each st across, turn. [7]

ROWS 3 – 50 (52, 52, 56, 56, 56, 60, 60): Repeat ROW 2.

Do not fasten off.

Pull up a long loop, tie a loose knot (to prevent your work from unravelling), and remove hook.

Fold ribbing in half and seam edges together with a yarn needle, using the tail from the starting chain.

Turn ribbing the right way around and begin yoke.

YOKE

ROUND 1: Ch 1, esc evenly around edge of ribbing (working 1 st for each ribbing row), sl st to join to beg st, do not turn. [50 (52, 52, 56, 56, 56, 60, 60)]

Mark 4 corners by placing stitch markers in the following sts:

  • XS: 1, 10, 26, 35
  • S: 1, 10, 27, 36
  • M: 1, 10, 27, 36
  • L: 1, 11, 29, 39.
  • XL: 1, 11, 29, 39
  • 2XL: 1, 11, 29, 39
  • 3XL: 1, 12, 31, 42
  • 4XL: 1, 12, 31, 42

Note: each INC round will add 8 sts to the stitch count i.e. 2 sts added at each corner. On EVEN rounds, the stitch count will be the same as the previous round. On each round, move the stitch markers up to each new corner stitch.

ROUND 2 (INC): Ch 1, 3 esc in join st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made), *esc in each st to next marked st, 3 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made); repeat from * twice more, esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [58 (60, 60, 64, 64, 64, 68, 68)]

Note: pm in sl st just made – this will make it easier to finish the next round. You may find it helpful to mark the sl st at the end of all INC rounds.

ROUND 3 (INC): Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, 3 esc in first marked st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made), *esc in each st to next marked st, 3 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made); repeat from * twice more, esc in each remaining st, ending with last esc in joining sl st, sl st to join to beg st. [66 (68, 68, 72, 72, 72, 76, 76)]

SIZES 2XL (3XL, 4XL) only

ROUND 4 (INC): Repeat ROUND 3. [80 (84, 84)]

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

ROUND 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) (EVEN): Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, esc in first st (pm in st just made), *esc in each st to next marked st, esc in marked st (pm in st just made), repeat from * twice more, esc in each remaining st, ending with last esc in joining sl st,, sl st to join to beg st (i.e. the first marked st). [66 (68, 68, 72, 72, 80, 84, 84)]

Note: DO NOT pm in sl st just made – you will not work into this sl st at the end of the next round.

SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL) only

ROUNDS 5 – 19 (19, 19, 19, 22): Repeat ROUNDS 2 – 4. [146 (148, 148, 152, 168)]

SIZES 2XL (3XL, 4XL) only

ROUNDS 6 – 21 (21, 21): Repeat ROUNDS 2 – 5. [176 (180, 180)]

YOKE (BUST INC ONLY)

The following yoke rounds will add stitches to the BUST only – no stitches will be added to the sleeves. Do not attempt this section without stitch markers!

SIZES S, (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL 4XL) only

ROUND 20 (20, 20, 23, 22, 22, 22) (INC): Ch 1, 2 esc in first marked st (pm in second st of 2 just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [152 (152, 156, 172, 180, 184, 184)]

SIZES M, (L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) only

ROUND 21 (21, 24, 23, 23, 23) (INC): Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, 2 esc in first marked st (pm in second st of 2 just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [156 (160, 176, 184, 188, 188)]

SIZES L (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) only

ROUNDS 22 – 23 (25 – 25, 24 – 25, 24 – 26, 24 – 27) (INC): Repeat previous round 2 (1, 2, 3, 4) times. [168 (180, 192, 200, 204)]

BODY

SPLIT FOR ARMHOLES

SIZE XS only

JOINING ROUND: Ch 1, *esc in marked st, ch 1, sk next 32 sts, esc in next marked st*, esc in each st to next marked st, repeat from * to * once more, esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [82 esc, 2 ch]

SIZES S, (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL 4XL)

JOINING ROUND: Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, *esc in marked st, ch 3 (5, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), sk next 32 (32, 33, 37, 39, 40, 40) sts, esc in next marked st*, esc in each st to next marked st, repeat from * to * once more, esc in each remaining st, ending with last esc in joining sl st, sl st to join to beg st.[88 (92, 102, 106, 114, 120, 124) esc, 6 (10, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26) ch]

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

ROUND 1: Ch 1, esc in each st around, working 1 esc in each underarm ch, sl st to join to beg st. [84 (94, 102, 112, 120, 132, 142, 150)]

ROUND 2: Ch 1, esc in each st around, sl st to join to beg st. [84 (94, 102, 112, 120, 132, 142, 150)]

ROUNDS 3 – 23: Repeat ROUND 2.

Note: if you would like to make your sweater a little longer, you can repeat ROUND 2 until your desired length is reached. (Remember that the ribbing will add approx. 2.5”/5cm in length to the finished sweater!)

Do not fasten off.

BODY RIBBING

Note: Ribbing is worked at a right angle to the body, and is joined to the body as you go.

ROW 1: Ch 10, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch until you reach the body, sl st to join to next body st. [9]

ROW 2: Sl st to next body st, turn. Sk 2 sl sts, sc (blo) in each st across, turn.

ROW 3: Ch 1, sc (blo) in each st across, sl st to join to next body st.

Repeat previous 2 rows until you have worked a ribbing row for each body st.

Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the ribbing.

SLEEVES

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

Note: before beginning the sleeves, take note of the 2 “body” sts to the left and right of the underarm chain. To avoid any gaps, you will work an “esc2tog” into the side of this body st and the armhole st beside it.

Join yarn in center of underarm chain.

ROUND 1: Ch 1, esc in join ch and each of next 0 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) chs, esc2tog in side of “body” st and next armhole st, esc in each armhole st around until 1 st rem before “body” st, esc2tog in next st and side of “body” st, esc in each of next 0 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) chs, sl st to join to beg st. [33 (35, 37, 38, 44, 48, 51, 53)]

ROUND 2: Ch 1, esc in each st around, sl st to join to beg st. [33 (35, 37, 38, 44, 48, 51, 53)]

ROUND 3 (DEC): Ch 1, esc2tog in first 2 sts, esc in each st around, sl st to join to beg st. [32 (34, 36, 37, 43, 47, 50, 52)]

SIZES XS (S, M, L) only

ROUND 4 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2.

ROUNDS 5 – 28 (30, 30, 30): Repeat previous 2 rounds 12 (13, 13, 13) more times. [20 (21, 23, 24)]

SIZE XL only

ROUND 4 (DEC): Repeat ROUND 3. [42]

ROUND 5 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2. [42]

ROUNDS 6 – 29: Repeat previous 3 rounds 8 more times. [26]

SIZE 2XL only

ROUNDS 4 – 5 (DEC): Repeat ROUND 3. [45]

ROUND 6 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2. [45]

ROUNDS 7 – 30: Repeat previous 4 rounds 6 more times. [27]

SIZE 3XL (4XL) only

ROUNDS 4 – 6 (DEC): Repeat ROUND 3. [47 (49)]

ROUND 7 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2. [47 (49)]

ROUNDS 8 – 32: Repeat previous 5 rounds 5 more times. [27 (29)]

Note: if you would like to make your sleeves a little longer, you can repeat the final sleeve round until your desired length is reached. (Remember that the ribbing will add approx. 2.5”/5cm in length to the finished sleeves!)

SLEEVE RIBBING

Work ribbing as per BODY.

Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the ribbing.

Finishing

SEAMING

Turn the sweater inside out, and whip stitch the ribbing edges together on both the BODY and the SLEEVES.

BLOCKING

Block sweater to measurements.

Weave in remaining ends.

All done!