HOW TO DRAFT PATTERNS FOR DIY BARBIE APPAREL

This guide will provide you with the essential tools, techniques, and tips to design and construct unique garments for your Barbie doll. We’ll cover everything you need to know to bring your fashion ideas to life. Get ready to unleash your inner designer and create one-of-a-kind Barbie outfits that reflect your personal style and creativity.

MERMAID DRESS

Start with the Basic Bodice Pattern

  • Begin by copying the entire basic bodice pattern, including the front, back, and side seams.
  • Extend the center front, center back, and side seams downwards to create the length of the dress. Barbie measures 18 cm from the waist down, so make the gown slightly longer than that for a floor-length look.

Draw the Waist Dart Lines

  • Extend lines from the tips of the waist darts straight down towards the hem. These lines will guide the panels of the dress.

Draft the Bodice

  • This will be a strapless dress, so separate the shape of the bodice.
  • For a simple, clean look, make the neckline straight across. For more of a challenge, try a sweetheart neckline.
  • The back of the bodice will have a shallow V-shape to add elegance.
  • To prevent gaping at the top, enlarge the bust dart slightly. The rest of the panel seams will follow the darts. You can also curve the bodice slightly below the bust for better shaping.

Design the Mermaid Skirt

  • Draft the skirt panels, narrowing the dress slightly at knee level (about 10 cm from the waist down).
  • The front of the skirt will be cut on fold to keep the lines smooth.
  • You can make the back of the skirt longer to create a small train for added drama.

Ensure Seam and Hemline Accuracy

  • Once the pattern is drafted, copy the individual pieces and ensure that the seams match in length and that the hemlines and necklines transition smoothly between each panel.
  • The curves below the knee should be identical between the front and back pieces, except for the train in the back.
  • To achieve this, start by copying the curve from the center front piece, then use that curve to draft the front side panel, and finally the back side panel.

Cut the Pattern Pieces

  • After drafting the pattern, cut out the fabric pieces with a 0.5 cm seam allowance around each edge.

Finish the Neckline

  • To finish the neckline, you can either create a facing for a clean edge or fully line the dress for a more polished look.

Assemble the Dress

  • Sew the bodice and skirt panels together, starting with the darts, side seams, and back. Make sure to sew along the curves carefully to maintain the mermaid silhouette.
  • Attach the front and back pieces at the side seams.

Add the Closure and Try on Barbie

  • Attach a velcro or snap closure at the back for easy dressing.
  • Try the dress on Barbie to ensure a snug fit, especially around the bust and waist.

Now, Barbie is ready to show off her elegant new mermaid dress!

BALLOON SKIRT DRESS

TOP

 Dart Manipulation

  • Use the basic bodice pattern. Rotate the darts to unite the two front darts, eliminating the back dart for simplicity.
  • Re-draw the front dart, starting 0.5 cm below the bust point.

Adjust the Neckline & Armscyes

  • Widen the neckline slightly and lower the underarm section.
  • Smooth out the waistline so that the side seams don’t form an angle.

Check Pattern Pieces

  • Ensure the neckline, armscye, and waistline align smoothly between the front and back pieces.

Sewing the Top

  • Cut two sets of the top pattern (for lining). Sew the shoulder seams and darts on both sets separately.
  • Attach the two pieces by sewing along the neckline and armscyes, leaving small seam allowances. Trim them afterward.

Final Steps

  • Close the side seams.
  • Add a small overlap at the back closure (leave 0.5 cm extra for snaps or velcro).

BALLOON SKIRT

Modify the Basic Skirt Pattern

  • Divide the front and back skirt pieces into 3 sections at the hemline. Shift the darts to align with the lines closer to the center.

Create the Balloon Shape

  • Tape the sections of the front and back skirts, leaving 1.5 cm between them at the hemline and 0.5 cm at the waistline. Add 0.7 cm flare at the center front and back.

Add Darts at the Hemline

  • Draw small darts between each section at the hemline to create folds. Fold the darts before cutting to ensure a smooth hemline.

Sewing the Skirt

  • Gather the fabric at the waistline. You can either gather the bottom or sew small folds to achieve the balloon shape.

Attach a Lining

  • Make a pencil skirt lining using the basic skirt pattern, shortened by 2 cm. Unite the hemlines of the outer skirt and the lining, allowing the lining to pull the balloon skirt upwards, maintaining its shape.

LAYERED SKIRT AND A V-NECK TOP

Materials Needed

  • Basic bodice and skirt patterns
  • Fabric for top and skirt
  • Sewing tools: scissors, pins, sewing machine
  • Optional: snap or velcro for closure

GATHERED V-NECK TOP

Rotate and Eliminate Darts

  • Take the basic bodice pattern and unite the darts, rotating them towards the center front (c.front) for gathering. Mark where the gathering starts with a notch.
  • Eliminate the back dart.

Draw the V-Neckline

  • Create a V-neckline that ends at the underarm line. Adjust the shape of the armscye and round off the c.front line.
  • Correct the waistline to smooth out any angles.

Check the Pattern

  • Ensure the neckline, armscye, and waistline flow smoothly between the front and back pattern pieces.

Sewing the Top

  • Gather the front section where indicated. Sew the shoulder seams, then close the side seams. Finish the neckline and armscye by folding and sewing a small hem or lining the top.
  • Add a closure (snap or velcro) to the back if needed.

LAYERED SKIRT

Prepare the Basic Skirt Pattern

  • Copy both left and right sides of the basic skirt pattern. To unite the center back (c.back), fill the gap at the waistline and increase the dart volume.

Add Flare

  • Convert the dart volume into flare, adding even more flare at the side seams (1.5 cm on each side, front and back).

Draft the Layers

  • Draft the skirt layers, ensuring that each layer gets progressively longer as it wraps around the skirt. Add extra flare to the top layers so they are wider than the ones below.
  • End the final layer at the middle of the c.front for a symmetrical hemline.

Create the Pattern Pieces

  • Separate the layers as individual pattern pieces. For larger (human-sized) skirts, ensure you maintain the grainline at the c.back.
  • Add notches at the hipline on each piece to help align the layers during sewing.

Sewing the Skirt

  • Sew each layer of the skirt, starting with the lowest one and attaching subsequent layers on top.
  • Add an opening on the left side for closure and finish the waistline with a waistband.

FLARED PANEL DRESS

Materials Needed:

  • Basic bodice and skirt patterns
  • Fabric (preferably lightweight for smooth draping)
  • Sewing tools: scissors, pins, sewing machine

Prepare the Pattern

  • Start by copying the basic bodice and skirt pattern as you would for a mermaid dress.
  • Extend the lines straight down for the panels. You can flare them out as much as you like for a more dramatic look.
  • Extend the c.front line, allowing it to be cut on fold, but ensure the line continues all the way up for symmetry.

Draft the Panels

  • Draft the front and back panels, ensuring the flared shape is consistent.
  • Blend and correct the hemline to avoid sharp angles.
  • Ensure a 90° angle at both the top and bottom of the front piece, especially for cutting on the fold.

Finalize the Pattern Pieces

  • Check the seam lengths to ensure the panels will align correctly when sewn together.
  • Make any necessary adjustments to the hemline and neckline for a smooth finish.

Sewing the Dress

  • Cut out the fabric using the final pattern pieces.
  • Sew the panels together, starting with the front and back pieces.
  • If your fabric is heavy, consider top-stitching the seams to flatten the seam allowance and add structure to the dress.

Finishing Touches

  • Finish the neckline, hem, and any other edges with a small hem or lining.
  • Press the seams flat for a polished look.

Now Barbie has a shiny new flared panel dress ready to wear!